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Horseback Riding - How To Ride a Horse
How to Begin Horseback Riding
from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can EditWhen you first begin to ride, it can be very exciting and nerve racking at the same time. It really helps to have a bit of guidance, especially if you have never contemplated owning or riding before. Read on to learn everything you need to know.
Steps
- Take riding lessons from a qualified teacher first! Start with barn chores at a quality stable first, if there is one nearby, to become familiar with horses and to get used to being around them. Many stables are happy to have a volunteer. In return they might let you ride their horses, and you will become acquainted with the horses, their temperaments and body language.
- Follow the instructor's guidance, and learn about all aspects of horsemanship, from putting tack on the horse, to cleaning and storing the tack when the ride is over.
- Learn to properly groom the horse. This is important both in "bonding" with a horse, if you are fortunate enough to ride the same one regularly, and also gives you a chance to look the horse over for problems or injuries before and after a ride.
- Feed and water the horse if you have opportunity, once again cementing a bond with the animal, earning its trust, and learning to trust it, as well. Many people are surprised, when they find themselves "up close, and personal", with a horse, with how large and powerful they truly are.
- Learn the steps involved for a beginning rider. Actual horseback riding involves more than "hopping up" on the horse's back and galloping off into the sunset. The following is a checklist for preparing for a ride.
- Bring your tack out of the tack room, check it over to make sure it is clean and in good shape, with no holes or tears in the leather. Set it down, preferably on a rail or saddle rack or stand. Ensure that it is out of the way of other riders.
- Catch or call your horse, and put on the halter. This is the leather or nylon harness that goes over the horse's head, and you will want to strap it tightly enough it doesn't slip, but not tight enough to be uncomfortable for the horse. Ensure that it is completely on the horse's head, many an escaped horse could have been avoided had they simply ensured that the halter was on completely.
- Lead the horse into the barn and attach the cross ties to either side of the halter, at the metal loops on either side of the halter. They should be clipped to the metal loops on the sides, closest to the horse's mouth.
- Use the curry comb, dandy (hard) brush, and body (soft) brush, in that order. The curry should be used on the neck, body, and about halfway down the horse's legs, and likewise for the hard brush. The body brush is the only brush that should be used all the way down to the horse's hooves. Do not brush the horse's face, use a towel or a grooming glove on this area. Pick up the horse's hooves and use a hoof pick to clean out dirt and mud if they appear to be dirty. Pick them up from the side, never, NEVER stand directly behind or in front of a horse's legs, for safety reasons.
- Standing on the horse's left side, slide the saddle banket over the horse's back, with the front of the blanket just at the ridge of the front shoulders. Do this without sudden, jerking motions, as your horse may spook at any startling movement.
- Lift the saddle over the horse's back, letting the stirrups and girth (leather or other type of strap passing across the belly to secure the saddle) hang on the opposite side. Center the saddle on the horse, and check that the blanket is equally exposed beneath the saddle, with an inch or so showing all the way around. The blanket will help keep the saddle from slipping, and at the same time, keep the saddle from rubbing or binding on the horse, causing discomfort. If the girth is currently unattached, attach it to the saddle on the horse's right side. If only one side has elastic, this side should not yet be buckled onto the saddle. Ensure that the side in contact with the horse is smooth. Often, one side of the girth will have leather tabs sewn down to hold the buckles, while the other is smooth. These tabs must not be face down, as this may cause the horse to experience undue discomfort. Also, many saddles have three leather tabs to buckle the girth to, use the two outside leather tabs, ensuring that the middle tab runs beneath the girth and is not twisted or forming any sort of bump.
- Pull the girth (cheststrap) under the horse and pass the tabs on the saddle through the girth buckles on the horse's left side. Ensure that it is not twisted.
- To tighten the girth, pass the leather tab on the saddle through the girth buckle, and then pull up on the end of the leather tab, securing the buckle once the girth is tightened. Ensure that the girth is tightened, and if only one end has elastic, this end should be tightened last.
- Put the bridle on your horse by holding it in your non-dominant hand and using the dominant hand to work the bit into the mouth. Secure all of the straps. The cavesson(strap passing around the muzzle) should be just tight enough to get one finger between it and the horse. The throat-latch, which passes near where the horse's head meets the neck, should be tight enough to remain in position without being tight. It should be relatively loose, with multiple fingers fitting between it and the horse.
- Walk the horse to a mounting block if so desired. Check that the girth is tight, the saddle should not shift significantly when attempts are made to move it. You should be on the horse's left side at this point.
- Catch the reins in your left hand, then grasp the horse's wither, mane, or the saddle horn with your left hand(do not pull on the horse!), and the back of the saddle with your right. Place your left foot in the stirrup, pull yourself up, and swing your right leg over the horse's hindquarters. Be careful not to kick the horse's rump as you swing your leg over his hindquarters, as he may begin to move if you do. Then again, they may do this anyway. It may be recommended to have someone else hold the horse while you are mounting.
- Drop your right foot in the stirrup, lean forward in a semistanding position just above the saddle, and feel if the saddle seems tight. If it has a tendancy to slip, or doesn't feel tight, dismount, again on the left side, and retighten the chest strap.
- Pull up the reins, and get each at equal length while holding them over the center of the horse's neck with its head facing straight ahead. The reins are, effectively, the "steering wheel" of the horse. To turn him left, you pull the reins left, so that the bit puts pressure on the horse's mouth, cuing him to move away from the pressure, turning the horse's head in that direction.
- A second style of steering the horse involves the reins in two hands, where you hold one hand steady while the other exerts gentle pressure straight backwards, thus causing the horse to move away from the pressure, turning in response. The left hand is pulled back while the right hand is held steady, and so the horse turns to the left. It is important for the inactive hand to remain steady and not travel forward. If the left hand is pulled back while the right hand moves forward, the horse may simply tilt its head while continuing straight on.
- Above all, listen to your teacher's instructions, since techniques may vary depending on the handler and trainer's methods for a particular horse.
- Urge the horse foreward by gently squeezing your calves into the horse's sides. Most horses respond to verbal commands, too, commonly, "giddap", or "get up", to go forward, ("whoa", to stop).
- Ride an open area as a beginner, staying away from fences, low branches of trees, or steep grades. Staying on a horse's back requires balance and concentration, and becomes much more natural and easy with practice. Be careful to keep the horse under your control, and watching for anything that may spook or cause the horse to rear up.
- Consider all the costs and the commitment of horse ownership before looking at buying a horse. Horses are living creatures, requiring feed, water, and attention every day, as well as a clean pasture area and stable or stall to protect it from the weather. They also require regular veterinary care, and hoof care by a qualified farrier, who trims the hoofs and reshods the horse when needed.
- When you think your prepared enough and ready, you may decide to buy a horse. If you or your parents don't want to buy a horse, you can always have a loan or lease a horse from your local riding school, pony club, or from a friend who may have stopped riding due to study, work or injury. Leasing is often cheaper as you and the owner agree on who should pay for what, most of the time the real owner pays for vet and the first pair of shoes. The rest is up to the new family. It is important to have the veterinarian look over the horse for possible health issues before purchasing, to avoid possible dishonest buyers.
- When you look at a horse or pony that you are thinking of buying, take an experienced, knowledgeable friend with you, whether its your riding instructor, coach, horse trainer or an experienced friend. A second or third opinion is always better than one. An instructor or coach can help you select a horse that is suited to your style of riding and to your ability and strengths. The things that you would want to look for when choosing a horse:
- Conformation: The horse should be sound and be well proportioned, not too big around the rear or the front, but look like an easy to control animal.
- Soundness: The horse should let you pick up all 4 feet, so you can check for stone bruises (which grow out) as well as leg diformities etc. Check the neck, as a thicker neck usually suggests the horse or pony is strong, and for a beginner rider, may be too hard to pull up.
- Age: This is very important. A beginner horse and a beginner rider do not mix. A good age for a beginner rider is about 10 to 12 years, this way, the rider can grow as the horse reaches its peak, the horse will have had the training and will be ready to go with the flow.
- Height: The height is also a major yet minor piece of information. Though a horse should be a decent height, if a rider feels confident on a pony of 11 hands, let them ride it till they are confident to ride a bigger pony, then a horse, if you push, you may push them too far. A good height for a horse for a beginner rider, novide or experienced rider is between 14 and 15 hands. This category is classed as the Galloway. This height is used for general purpose and is very hard to grow out of. A pony is anything under 14 hands and a Hack is anything above 15hands. 1 hand=4inches=10cm.
- Temperament. This is one of the most most important things when choosing a horse. The horse should be quiet and yet happy to see you. The horse should have a kind eye, and you should not be able to see a lot of white (sclera-the white part similar to the human eye) Appaloosa horses have a more noticable sclera, but if the eyes look fiery, then the horse is upset and may be fiery.
- Gender: Different people have different opinions. Mares are better than gelding or geldings are better than mares. This question and debate has been around for decades. Really it comes down to choice and situation. Mares come into season about every 28 days, and during this time can be moody, this is know as moody mare syndrome. Geldings don't get this, and are usually more docile and relaxed. Though you can get a few that are between. It also depends on your child or you. Many kids say "I want a girl horse coz girls are better," boys retaliate saying "Nah, boy horses are better". In many cases, boys seem to get along better with girl horses (mares) and girls get along better with geldings. But its entirely up to you.
- Get the necessary equipment. The basics include:
- Saddle and Saddle Blanket. The saddle helps many young and old riders stay on the horse, it is a means of providing comfort for riders over long distances. They come in many styles and varieties, and sizing can be an issue. When buying a saddle, second hand or brand new, don't always go for cheap or expensive, its true, you do get what you payed for, but most of the time a mid range saddle is ideal and can last up to and past 12 years, depending on how its treated. When selecting a size, make sure you have the horses height and breed as well as conformation and size (as in fat or skinny). A child rider usually is a 10 inch or so, but some saddles are suited to stocky fat ponies and some are suited to elegant lanky horses. The rider should always try the saddle, even just by sitting in it at the saddlery. Saddles come in many styles and varieties each depending on the style and purpose of riding. A Western Saddle is usually only used for Western and a Jumping Saddle is used for Show Jumping. The best type is a General or All Purpose. They have a seat that allows a child to compete in Dressage, Flat Riding, Hacking, Showjumping, Cross coutry and games. The saddle cloth should be large enough to fit the saddle and have about an inch or two all the way around the saddle. This helps protect the saddle and stops the saddle from pinching the horse.
- Bridle. The bridle provides a means of control. In laymens terms, the bit helps control the horse, the reins help to turn. Though this is only partly true, your riding instructer will do the teaching, so you only need to know what type is better. A general bridle, Cavesson or Hanovarian is best, a Cavesson has a Flash nose band, which helps prevent the horse opening its mouth, a hanovarian does not. Each are basically the same, it really depends on the horse and rider combination. The bit and bridle must be proper for the horse, and different bits and bridles must be tried with the horse to find the best combination, as each horse is unique and sensitive to minute changes within the bridle setup. Most bridles now have a cavesson to prevent the horse from opening its mouth, and may have one or two bits, depending upon the skill and preference of the rider, and the preference of the horse. It is highly recommended that this component be handled by a trainer or other person highly experienced with horses, as an improperly chosen bit or poorly adjusted bridle may result in difficulty, and possibly danger while attempting to control the horse.
- Grooming kit. Brushing a horse helps blood circulation, lets the rider bond with the horse, and makes him clean and shiny. You shoudl always groom a horse before gonig for a ride and after, before removes any dirt and prickles that may cause the horse to react as he is in pain,, after allows you to remove any sweat marks which at a later time will be harder to remove. A basic grooming kit should have: Curry Comb (Used to remove dry dirt and excessive hair), Dandy Brush (A stiff brush used to remove mud and hard stains), Body Brush (a soft bristled brush for bringing a shine and used on the face and delicate areas), hoof pick (to remove mud and stones from hooves), Mane comb (used to brush mane and forelock), a sponge (for cleaning nose and eyes and remove sweat marks after riding). Many kits do not include a hair brush, which is very good for brushing the tail. You can pick them up at any cheap outlet, they are the same as human brushes. It is also recommended, however not necessary to have a towel to towel off sweat after a ride (for horse and rider), and to have a grooming glove (a plastic or rubber glove with small studs, specifically for grooming very delicate areas, such as the face).
- Riding attire. The rider should have a helmet designed specifically for riding, that is ASTM/STI certified. Helmets such as bike helmets are not satisfactory, as riding helmets cover more of the head and are specifically designed for safety against falls while horseback riding. Boots should be flat-soled, preferably pointed, and they must have a heel, all to facilitate the easy removal of the boot from the stirrup should anything go wrong. Material, lace vs. zipper, and height are usually a manner of preference, or dictated by the discipline one wishes to compete in. These two components are of high necessity for safety reasons, while other articles are more for comfort. Jodhpurs (tight pants designed specifically for riding) are usually considered the best choice, giving the most flexibility and give for riding, although any long, durable pair of pants would be satisfactory, as long as they allow for a full range of movement. A shirt would usually be another choice, preferably with sleeves of some sort for outdoor riding to prevent sunburn, or simply any shirt which breathes well, for comfort while on the horse. Gloves may be another choice, as some may see their fingers irritated by the reins, or they may prefer the grip provided by the material.
- Learn the art of Horse Riding. Though it seems easy, and yes, it is easy once you get the hang of it! It is hard work and while some poeple have a natural riding ability, some do not, and they need to work at it. Below are links to explain about each specific part of horse riding. Though, it is beneficial if you have an instructor helping you until your abilities have improved.
Tips
- If you suddenly decide you want to ride horses, you shouldn't just go out and buy a horse. Research them and take riding lessons. They're living things that you can't just decide you want for a hobby and just drop when you get bored with it. *Having a riding instructor can help improve your riding drastically.
- Make sure you get what you pay for--A Riding Instructor that doesn't teach... it's a waste of money.
- Don't do anything to fast, you may loose your confidence or you may miss something important.
- Don't think you know everything; even the Olympic Riders have lessons! Riders are always improving and need support!
- A horse is extremely expensive to keep and take care of, make sure you know what your getting into. If your keeping it at your place you have to have a 2 acre field that's fully fenced(NO BARBWIRE!). You have have a large shelter for it,tack is about 1000$, food for a year is a few hundred the horse itself a couple thousand. You have to get up at 6:00 in the morning to feed, again sometime around lunch and another at dinner...there's ALOT to be done with a horse.
Warnings
- Horseback riding is dangerous and contains inherent risks associated with working with and riding on horses.
- Never stand behind a horse.
- Never run up to a horse-however quiet they may be.
- Always wear a helmet and boots, they are there to protect you.
- Horses may spook (scare) easily and can be very unpredictable
- Don't stand straight in front of a horse (it's one of their blind spots)
- Always wear boots with a heel, so that if you slip the heel will catch on the stirrup and prevent your leg from becoming caught.
Things You'll Need
- Horse
- Helmet (Approved by your riding instructor and ASTM/STI certified)
- Riding Boots with smooth sole and heel
- Half chaps (they prevent the saddle from pinching or rubbing you, preventing saddle sores)
- Saddle
- Bridle
- Bit
- Saddle Cloth
- Grooming Brushes
- Halter
- Lead line
- Riding Pants
- Shirt
- Feed Bucket
- Water Bucket or Trough
- Horse Feed
Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Begin Horseback Riding. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.
How to Prepare to Ride a Horse
from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can EditIt takes a long time to get ready even for an afternoon ride at the barn. The horse has to be well groomed so as to be ready to be mounted. Then, even when your ride is done, you are not done, because the horse still needs more care. Here are the steps you will need to take each time you go riding.
Steps
Before you ride- You should brush your horses before you ride, then you should get your Saddle and Bridle ready.
- Examine your saddle and bridle carefully to make sure they are intact. Make sure there aren't any missing, worn, or broken pieces.
- Check your horse for cuts. Rub your hand all over it and make sure there are not any open wounds.
- Groom your horse.
- Go over your horse with a rubber (not metal -- see Warnings) curry. Move it in circles, removing any loose hair.
- Use the stiff brush. Move it with the hair in long strokes ending with a flick of the brush. This removes dust and hair that the rubber curry comb brought to the surface.
- Use the soft brush next. Go with the hair in long strokes. Use the soft brush all over the horse's body and face.
- Use the hoof pick. Use it on the horse's front and back hooves, removing any mud, manure, or stones your horse may have picked up.
- Make sure you groom the girth area.
- Put on the saddle.
- Tighten the girth but you must be able to fit four fingers in between so you don't overtighten it. Then walk your horse a little to make sure the horse isn't bloated. This may seem cruel, but horses will puff up their stomachs so the girth is loose. The girth won't cause them any pain or discomfort if it's put on properly.
- Tighten the girth again. You should be able to fit two fingers between the girth and the horse.
- Put a halter on so that you can lunge your horse before you ride. (See Tips below for an alternative.)
- Attach a lunge line to the halter and get a lunge whip.
- Walk, trot, and canter your horse in both directions so that the horse can release any built up energy.
- Remove the halter.
- Put on the bridle. Mount up and ride!
- Untack your horse.
- If your horse is hot, walk it around until it has cooled off.
- Brush your horse again with the soft brush.
- If your horse has a sweat stain where the saddle was, rinse your horse off with a hose. Walk your horse around until it dries. Only rinse your horse if it is warm outside.
- Put your horse back out in the pasture or into the stall.
Tips
- It's a good idea to clean your tack after every ride. It keeps your tack in good condition and makes it last longer.
- If you don't have time to lunge your horse, you can just turn it out into the arena for a minute without the saddle or bridle on to let it run around as it could roll and damage your tack.
- If you don't have time to fully groom your horse, just pick out the hooves and groom where the saddle will be placed.
- In the UK the soft brush is called the body brush and the hard brush is called the dandy brush.
- When bathing your horse, use a rubber sweat scraper to remover excess water. But do not wash your horse too often or you will remove the essential oils from its coat that help it to repel water in the rain.
- Pay special attention while removing mud from lower legs in order to avoid mud fever where the mud and dirt block the pores on the lower leg.
Warnings
- Don't put a hot and wet horse right back into a stall.
- Don't get on a horse that hasn't been turned out for a few days without lunging it or turning it out. The horse will have built up a lot of energy and could bolt or buck.
- You should always wear a safety riding helmet when riding a horse.
- Never use the metal curry comb on a horse that has shedd its winter fur, as this may cause injury. Only use it for its intended purpose: To remove winter hair.
Things You'll Need
- A horse
- Saddle and bridle
- A saddle pad and girth
- Grooming supplies:
- Rubber and metal curry combs
- Hoofpick
- Stiff (dandy) brush
- Soft (body) brush
- Halter and Lunge line (optional)
Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Prepare to Ride a Horse. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.
How to Ride a Horse
from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can EditRiding is a sport and you need to train and practice. For all those people who think all you do is sit on a horse, this is a very wrong assumption. Although having an experienced rider will help you start out, here are some pointers to help get you started. Riding is an amazing experience that everyone should try.
Steps
- First, find a qualified, knowledgeable riding instructor. If you are new to horses, you should always learn with an experienced instructor.
- See How to Prepare to Ride a Horse.
- Stand on the near, left side of the horse. Put your left foot in the stirrup, and hold onto the wither, (holding onto the saddle when mounting will cause it to slide). Keep both your hands on the front of the horse. You can also hold the cantle of the saddle (back or seat) with your right hand when mounting).
- Push up and swing your right leg over the back of the horse, keeping your leg from kicking the horses flank.
- When mounted, gather your reins and then hang both legs down near stirrups and make sure they are the right length by having the stirrup reach your ankle. You should also be able to simply slide your feet into the stirrup while lifting your feet about a few inches
- Start off with a slow walk. To ask for this pace, squeeze your legs, (lower calf) and the horse should move off. Only kick the horse if he does not respond to repeated squeezes. You don't want to teach him bad habits by ignoring you. The walk is a 4 beat gait, meaning you can feel when each hoof hits the ground. After a few minutes stop and check your girth, you should be able to fit 4 fingers between the girth and the horse, if you can fit more, then you must tighten the girth.
- While walking, make sure to keep your heels down, back straight and chin up. Your body should form a straight line that can be drawn from your heel, to the hips, to the shoulders.
- There are two kinds of reining. In English riding, bit reining is predominant. In bit reining, you should pull slightly on the reins to turn the horse's head in order to turn. In Western riding, neck reining or direct reining is used. To neck rein, slide the reins in the direction you wish to go, putting pressure against the opposite side horse's neck that you want to turn to.
- Most riders think you pull on the left rein to go left and the right rein to go right. This is true, but not very effective and may cause long term health problems having to do with the mouth of your horse. Learn how to steer with your legs. For example if you want to go left, use your opposite leg (right leg) and put pressure on the horse with the leg. While you are putting pressure with your right leg, "open the door" with your left hand. That means you loosen up the reins only in your left hand and pull outward like you are opening a door. Doing those two things plus steering with your reins gives you perfect control.
- When stopping, pull back on the reins and sit deep; you may have to lean back a bit and put your weight into your bottom and heels. When halted, release reins as the reward and pat your horse. Direct reining is just like bit reining, it is usually used with a green horse, but can also be used with any horse.
- Practice the basics, turning in each direction, and stopping and starting until you are completely comfortable on the horse. You may also want to practice mounting and dismounting, as it will help you get more comfortable, especially if you have never ridden before.
- Once you are comfortable at the walk, you can try a trot. Trotting is quite bumpy and you may get unnerved and unseated. Do not take anything too fast. It may take a week or two to start to trot. If you are riding English, try posting. Posting is when you rise to the beat of the trot. To post, simply rise and fall, but when you sit down, make sure you are following the horse's outside shoulder (the one closest to the rail). When that shoulder is going forward, you rise. When it is going back, you go down. If you sit the trot, move your hips with the horse otherwise you will bounce and the horse's back won't feel too great.
- To get the horse to move forward, as in any other gait, you must squeeze slightly with your legs. The trot is two (2) beats. You should be able to count "1,2,1,2" while your horse is trotting.
- When slowing from a trot to a walk, sit deep and pull back slightly on the reins.
- Continue trotting until you can post effectively and are comfortable at the trot. Now that you are bouncing in the saddle, do not let your posture suffer and remember to keep your heels down (it was easier for me to post with my heels down than when I forgot and relaxed). Practice turning and stopping right from the trot as well as slowing to the walk.
- The next step is canter, this may take months before you start this. To ask for canter, squeeze your out side leg while having it back a bit and squeeze with your inside leg. Before you canter, sit trot and then ask, as this will have you sitting ready for the canter. At canter you should sit back slightly, and when you feel you are sitting back too much, you will be sitting back just enough. Or you can go into a half seat when you canter, which is a modified two-point. The two point is the jumping position.
- At a canter, you rock forward and backward, with your bottom just slightly off the saddle. Cantering is also known as a lope to most western horseman. Cantering is much faster than trotting and will take time to get used to. Once you can canter, again, stay vigilant with your posture and heels. The more advanced you become, the more details are required to ride properly. Make sure to keep practicing posting and walking while learning how to canter, because these are skills you need to advance.
- Leads are important to the canter. If you pick up the wrong lead, the horse will be uncomfortable. The inside shoulder should be leading (it will look as if it is staying ahead of the other shoulder). After picking up the canter, glance down to make sure you have the correct lead. If not, slow down to a trot and pick up the canter again.
- Once you are comfortable at the canter, you can move on to a gallop. Galloping is the fastest gait. To gallop, you must be cantering, squeeze your calves just like when changing gaits before.
- Galloping is much like a canter, but faster. You should sit slightly forward in the saddle and keep your bottom elevated. Stick with your basics and you should be excellent and fine
- using a crop is fine, but be sure to only use it when you need it and do not hit the horse too hard. The crop does not hurt the horse if you use it correctly, it will just make a noise.
- After riding, be sure to cool him down by walking him around. To see if he's cooled off, feel his chest. If it's hot, keep walking; if it's cool, you're good to go. Remember to wash where the saddle was if it's cool enough or use a soft brush where the saddle was.
Tips
- Just Make sure that you start out slow, walk before you trot, trot before you canter, canter before you gallop.
- If you are new to riding horses, you should get a knowledgeable horse person to help, usually a riding instructor or coach. A friend is good but an accredited person is better!
- Always release your reins when you halt, this rewards the horse and the horse will pull if you don't release.
- Always ask or say something if you have questions because it will help you to learn!
- When you fall off, because you will, just get right back on. If you do not you will think about the fall and it will freak you out to get back on. It is scary but just something you have to do!
- If you fall off and your helmet cracks, buy a new one! Do not ever use a cracked helmet!
- Get to know the horse. Not knowing how it reacts with a human can be dangerous if you approach one.
- Make sure that you feel comfortable on the horse that you are riding. If you are nervous chances are the horse will be too.
- It is wise to have been riding for a few years before competitions and joining a sport. Most of them require more advanced riding styles and techniques.
- Always keep your heels down!
- Always look where you want to go!
- Move with the horse when it moves.
- When cantering or walking, move with the horse. It makes you look better on the horse and makes it more comfortable than having your bum up in the air when cantering!
- Remember to keep your hands steady and don't jerk the horse in the mouth or it will hurt it badly.
- Most Horses Are Trained differently. Check to see what cues or correctly called Aids your horse as been trained to use. As some have been trained using heels, some have been trained using, legs, seat reins, and other things.
Warnings
- Always wear a safety helmet for your protection with the correct standard.
- It is highly recommended that you wear a back protector
- Always wear riding boots that have a a flat sole with a slight heel. (To prevent stirrup slipping too far, resulting in your foot through the stirrup)
- Always wear long pants when riding
- Never sit or kneel near a horse
- Try to always mount from the left side or near side. Horses are usually trained most on this side, but a well trained horse should be handled on both sides equally
- Don't run up to a horse, you can come up behind it but make sure the horse knows you're there and be cautious, you can pat him on his rump and say "whoa" or "easy boy" so he knows you are there! Always move to his shoulder and always talk to him so he knows your coming closer.
- This may seem strange to beginners but try not to feel nervous around a horse. A horse can pick up what you are feeling and when you are nervous, the horse will feel nervous, too.
- Never yank the bit, think that the horse has egg shells in his mouth and he'll thank you by being relaxed and free moving.
- Always have a professional coach or trainer or experienced horse rider with you if you are just learning to ride. You should always ride in the presence of someone else in case of a fall or any other emergency, there will be someone to help you.
- Putting a bridle on is harder then it looks! Horses can stick their heads up and about a million other things!
- Always make sure that the girth is tightened appropriately. Double check before mounting. If you need help, do not hesitate to ask. If you make it too tight, the horse will be grumpy. If you make it too loose, the saddle will slip.
- Horses are sensitive animals. Always make sure you are relaxed and calm around them, so as not to make them feel nervous.
- When you are trotting, keep track of where your feet are. If they are under you, that is fine.
- Never scream on a horses back, even if he gets nervous and starts to trot, dont panic, because the more pressure you put on the horse, the more scared you will make him.
- If this is your first time riding, never try bareback. A lot of girls and boys think that bareback should be their first ride so they can feel the horse underneath them first. Wrong. The saddle is always there for your comfort and protection, and its always safe. Try a bareback session after you ride with a saddle.
- Check this short article for some good safety tips for new riders: Equestrian Horse Riding
Things You'll Need
- A horse
- A bridle
- A saddle pad
- A saddle
- A girth
- Knowledgeable instructor or coach
- Riding Boots
- Breeches or Jeans
- Certified Riding Helmet
- Optional items:
- Half chaps/full chaps providing extra grip and support
- Gloves help grip reins
- Monkey Strap
- A stirrup
- A jump
Sources and Citations
Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Ride a Horse. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.
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